xx. Kajuji (勧修寺)

Location: Yamashina Ward (near subway Ono Stn.), Kyoto; about 50 min. from Osaka or about 20 min. from Kyoto + 7 min. walking time

Associated with: The Picture Ghost, or Garei (画霊)

Not so long ago, an old and dilapidated but still beautiful folding screen was kept at Kajuji Temple. Painted on the screen was a woman holding a child. When it caught the eye of a local samurai, the priests, not caring much for the old screen and seeing a way to win favor with the local gentry, wasted no time in handing it over. Once installed at the samurai's residence, however, a ghostly woman began to appear. When it was discovered that the screen and the hauntings were connected, the samurai abruptly returned the screen to Kajuji, not bothering to explain why. The hauntings continued at the temple, where the priests also eventually put two and two together. Upon having the old screen inspected, they found out it was an original Tosa Mitsuoki (1617-1691). Go on. Get ye to Wikipedia.

The later hauntings saw the ghostly woman and child wandering the grounds of Kajuji. And I'm not surprised they did because the temple is quite beautiful. Established in Shotai 3 (900), it boasts a large pond known as the Himuro-no-ike (氷室の池, lit. Ice House Pond) with a lovely meandering path around the edge. During the Heian period, a chunk of the pond's frozen crust was presented to the imperial court  (you're welcome) every year on January 2 for divination. The thickness of this ice was used to predict the grain harvest for the coming year.

Photo Credit: Gragma's Yokai Tourbus

During my visit to the grounds I was surprised to come across a rocky object known as a sazare-ishi (細石), a boulder formed by the merging of smaller stones. Such boulders are referenced in Japan's national anthem as a metaphor for the emperor's long reign: "Rule on, my lord, until what are pebbles now by ages united to mighty rocks shall grow, whose venerable sides the moss doth line." I have to admit I wasn't sure what to make of Kajuji's not-so-subtle example.

Photo Credit: Gragma's Yokai Tourbus

Comments: Kajuji might seem out-of-the-way, but its nearest station Ono is part of the subway Tozai Line. This line runs right into central Kyoto and past some nice sightseeing spots like Nanzen-ji (Keage Stn.) the Higashiyama district (Higashiyama Stn. and Sanjo Keihan Stn.), and Nijo Castle (Nijojo-mae Stn.). Though the temple seems to think itself popular enough to require parking bays for tour buses, on the out-of-season rainy weekday afternoon I visited, I was the only one there. Still I recommend it if you'd like to visit a beautiful temple with some relative peace and quiet.

Getting There

The starting point on the Midosuji subway line is Umeda Stn. Our destination is (Kyoto) subway Ono Stn.

The first part of the journey requires that you travel from (JR) Osaka Stn. (which is next to subway Umeda Stn.) to (JR) Yamashina Stn. Yamashina is just past Kyoto on the same line, so the previous posts detailing how to get to Kyoto will serve you just as well here (just go one extra stop). Take the shinkaisoku (special rapid service train) or kaisoku (rapid service train) to Yamashina from Osaka.

At Yamashina Station you have to change to the subway. The subway is managed by a different railway company, so go through the ticket gates and follow the signs to the subway rather than just changing platforms.

At subway Yamashina Station, take the Tozai Line three stops in the direction of Rokujizo to Ono Station. Easy!

Getting Your Bearings at Ono Station

At Ono Stn., take Exit 1 to the street level. Following the map below, go left on the main road and then immediately take the first left off it. The rest of the way is easy.

Map courtesy of Google Maps

The temple itself is called Kajuji, but it has been known by other variations such as Kanshuji and Kanjuji. These names still exist in the surrounding area. For example, the bridge you'll cross over the Yamashina River is the Kanshuji Bridge.

Driver Gragma (yokaitourbus "at" mail "dot" com)

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/yokaitourbus/

The Master List (Kyoto)
http://yokaitourbus.blogspot.jp/2015/08/6-c-master-list-kyoto.html

(ghost) The Picture Ghost, or "Garei" (画霊)
Site: Kajuji Temple (勧修寺), aka Kanjuji Temple 
Nearest Station: (Subway) Ono Stn. (小野駅)
Google Map Search: "Kaju-ji Yamashina" ("勧修寺 山科")