Saturday, October 31, 2015

7. Host Post, Halloween 2015

Hello Boils and Ghouls! Gragma here!

I thought I'd take the opportunity to talk to you directly and let you know what's been going on at the blog. As I type, it has had less than fifty views, so if you're reading this in 2015, thank you and kansha! More likely you'll be reading this after going through later posts (assuming the blog hasn't died in the meantime).

Firstly, some notes on navigating the blog. It has two main types of posts. There are general information posts like this one, which are numbered 1, 2, 3, and so on. The most important of these posts are the Master Lists per region. They contain enough basic information that with the help of a mapping site such as Google Maps you should be able to locate the places on your own. You'll notice that the basic entries on each list are not alphabetical. Rather I've listed them geographically from north to south. In the case of Hyogo they are listed east to west to follow the main stretch of train line.

The second type of post are the more fleshed-out entries that contain additional information, directions and maps. These are numbered using Roman numerals. You may find the choices so far rather obscure and I am deeply sorry for the lack of kappas. What I have been doing, and generally speaking what I will continue to do, is prioritize sites that won't or don't easily come up in a map search. For the majority of basic entries in the Master List posts, you'll be able to plot your trips with minimum effort. Though the idea is to flesh out all the list entries, unfortunately I'm restricted by time, so please refer to the Master Lists for updates as they will be more frequent and the haunts will appear there first. I've just done a bunch and they will be up soon.

Some notes on the directions. You'll notice that each fleshed-out entry gives directions from the subway Midosuji Line in Osaka. Please see one of my earliest posts to understand why I'm doing it this way.

http://yokaitourbus.blogspot.jp/2015/08/4-midosuji-train-line.html

You'll likely find this system of directions tiresome if you're not based in Osaka. I am trying to include extra notes on navigating from local hubs.

One thing I haven't addressed are the train network maps at the stations. In theory they are a great idea. You find the station that is your destination on the network map, and near it is the fare you need to pay from the station you are currently at. Unfortunately, many maps have the entire region mapped out on them, and it can take a while to find your station if you're not familiar with the layout.

Here's a tip. You do not need to have the exact fare when you get on a train. If you're anxious to get to the platform and be on your way, you can buy the cheapest ticket and that will get you into the station. When you arrive at your destination, there will be something called a fare adjustment machine near the gate. Slip your ticket into it and it will tell you what the difference to pay is.

Finally, let me say a word on the layout and style of the site. You may have noticed that there are no detailed reviews, photos, pictures of yokai, and other pleasing visuals that would help make the blog more impressive. Though I can't deny this saves me a LOT of time, the fact is from the beginning I never planned to include any of it. If you're visiting this blog, I'm assuming you've already read up on yokai online, have perhaps seen the Toriyama Sekien prints and some of the other artwork, and maybe read a bit of Mizuki Shigeru.

While Gragma's Yokai Tourbus might provide you a new scrap of info here and there, my priority is not to educate people about the yokai themselves but to help guide them to their haunts. The problem I have is that it's not always obvious how a haunt ties in with a certain yokai, and it's often the case that some background information or tale needs to be told in order for it to make sense. For a legend or tale in which several accounts exist, I have no problem cherry picking the accounts or details most relevant to the haunt in question. Most of the time this involves leaving out accounts from other parts of Japan. Sorry Tokyo!

Again, I would be very happy to take requests, especially if you have a trip planned. Feedback is also welcome!

Driver Gragma (yokaitourbus "at" mail "dot" com)
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/yokaitourbus/

vi. Minatoya's Child-Rearing Ghost Candy Shop, or "みなとや幽霊子育飴本舗" (みなとやゆうれいこそだてあめほんぽ)

Location: Higashiyama Ward (near Kiyomizu-Gojo Stn., Keihan Line), Kyoto City; about 60 min. from Osaka or about 10-15 min. from Kyoto + 8 min. walking time

Associated with: A type of yurei known as a child-rearing ghost

There are many graveyards in the vicinity of Higashiyama, but not far from Rokudo Chinno-ji temple there is a confectionery store that has stood for centuries. Sometime in 1599, a woman began to appear each night to buy candy. After a time the shop owner suspected something was amiss when he discovered leaves in the coin box (an old shapeshifter trick). Thinking a fox may be duping him, he decided to follow the woman. Her moonlit form led him through the alleys and into a graveyard, where he lost sight of her. He was just about to leave when he noticed a movement out of the corner of his eye. Amidst the decaying corpses was a newborn baby; it's tiny writhing form lying alongside the body of a recently deceased woman. Dumbfounded, he took the baby home to raise him, and the ghostly woman never appeared again. The supernatural tale of the mother keeping her child alive spread and the shop's wares became known as "child-rearing ghost candy" (as in, the candy of ghosts who raise children).

That's weird enough, but the candy has a rep for being lucky if you're seeking a promotion. It just so happens that the baby grew up to be a great Buddhist monk. I suppose going from a baby left for dead to adopted son of a candy shop owner to a great monk is a promotion of sorts. 

Comments: This stretch along the Higashiyama Mountain Range is a must-see for anybody who has even one day in Kyoto, and the area here east of Kiyomizu-Gojo Stn. is in the thick of some of the best sites to be had. The granddaddy of them all is of course Kiyomizudera, and Minatoya's Child-Rearing Ghost Candy Shop is a relatively minor detour on the way to or from the temple. 

Getting There

The starting point on the Midosuji subway line is Yodoyabashi Stn. Our destination is Kiyomizu-Gojo Stn. on the Keihan Line. 

Subway Yodoyabashi Stn. is one stop south of Umeda. At the north end of subway Yodoyabashi Stn. you'll find the Keihan Line. From Yodoyabashi, the Keihan Main Line runs all the way into Kyoto. To get to Kiyomizu-Gojo, you can jump on the fastest service there is: the Limited Express. If your hotel is in the Kyobashi area or anywhere near Osaka Castle Park, then I recommend you make your way to Kyobashi and commence your journey from Kyobashi Stn. (Keihan Line).

From JR Kyoto Stn. you can take the JR Nara line and go one stop to Tofukuji, where there is an adjacent Keihan station. You can also walk from Kyoto Stn. to Shichijo Stn. in about 15 minutes and take the train one stop up from there.

Getting Your Bearings at Kiyomizu-Gojo Station

At Kiyomizu-Gojo, come out at Exit 5. This will have you facing north. Walk along in the same direction and take the first right, following the map below. Note that the main drag to Kiyomizudera is better accessed from Exit 4.

Map courtesy of Google Maps

Image courtesy of Google Maps

Information on Minatoya's Child-Rearing Ghost Candy Shop

The shop is open from 10:00 until 16:00, closed on Mondays unless Monday is a national holiday, in which case the shop will close on the following weekday. Keep in mind that sometimes Japan has national holidays strung together, so if it happens that Monday and Tuesday are national holidays, then the shop would close on Wednesday (for example).


Driver Gragma (yokaitourbus "at" mail "dot" com)
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/yokaitourbus/

The Master List (Kyoto)
http://yokaitourbus.blogspot.jp/2015/08/6-c-master-list-kyoto.html

(yurei) Child-Rearing Ghost or Kosodate-Yurei (子育て幽霊)
Site: Minatoya's Child-Rearing Ghost Candy Shop (みなとや幽霊子育飴本舗)
Nearest Station: (Keihan Line) Kiyomizu-Gojo Stn. (清水五条駅)
Google Map Search: "みなとや幽霊子育飴本舗" <-- A search for the Japanese will bring up the location.