Associated with: Nue aka "the Japanese chimera"
Yorimasa's defeat of the nue in 1153 is often referred to in Japanese as the nuetaiji (鵺退治), or literally, "nue extermination." It's an interesting turn of phrase, as the way the nue's body was handled often reminds me of times I'm called upon to dispose of panic-inducing insects in my house. The phrase that sums up that general feeling after a well-placed spray or swat would be something like, "Ew! Get rid of it!" And the best way to do that? Well, I can tell you that a toilet will do the trick in thoroughly removing a dead insect out of sight and out of mind. I am in this way a modern-day Yorimasa.
The people of Kyoto likewise once viewed their rivers as a vast flushing toilet, as reflected in the charming old saying, "Osaka drinks our toilet water." This is in reference to water from Lake Biwa flowing through Kyoto and into Osaka (and finally out into Osaka Bay). Sufficed to say, this is how Yorimasa dealt with the dead nue... yet another apparent case of the old capital letting Osaka deal with its shit.
The details differ slightly depending on the account. Yorimasa cut the nue's corpse into pieces, or didn't, and sent it down the Kamo River in either a dugout canoe or bamboo raft. Whatever the circumstances, the people of Kyoto were happy to be rid of a pest. The Kamo is the large river you see when you exit Shichijo, Kiyomizu-Gojo, Gion-Shijo and Sanjo stations to name a few. From there it eventually merges with the Katsuragawa (Katsura River), and that later joins the Yodo River, or Yodogawa. This was the route that the dead nue took Milo-and-Otis style until the craft finally washed ashore. The local folk gave the nue a proper burial and entombed it in a nuezuka (鵺塚), or a "nue mound."
Where the nue ended up is disputed, but the first site in terms of distance relative to Kyoto is in Miyakojima Ward, Osaka City. If you follow the Kamo, Katsuragawa and Yodo rivers, it indeed flows past the general area of where the mound lies, but the nearby Okawa River (大川), looks to be a closer and therefore better candidate, and in fact it is. Just before the Nagarabashi Bridge crosses the Yodogawa, the Okawa River abruptly branches south. The Okawa River here was once part of the original Yodogawa, which took a different route to the current Yodo River (which from this point is actually an artificial channel). The Nuezuka is just east of the Okawa River and near subway Miyakojima Stn.
Nansuitei Yoshiyuki, 1860 (Source: Tokyo Metro Library, https://www.library.metro.tokyo.jp/ via http://ukiyo-e.org)
When the nue washed ashore here in Osaka, the local folk first notified the head priest of nearby Boon-ji Temple (Google Map Search: "Boon-ji Temple Miyakojima" ...it's still there if you're super keen) before building the mound at his instruction. The original mound is thought to have been near the temple, and the story goes that it was torn down during the Meiji period. Deprived of its resting place, the nue's reawakened spirit began wreaking havoc on the local populace. Because of that, the mound was rebuilt in its current location in 1870. The actual shrine that you can see today was built by locals in 1957. (Remember the key points here because we'll see this basic series of events again later.)
Comments: Miyakojima is a nice enough place and centrally located, but there is not a whole lot to do while you're there. That said, if you had even a spare hour at the end of the day, it's by no means a difficult trip to make. The mound is close to a Japanese-style shopping arcade, or shotengai. Like many such arcades, it's seen better days.
Getting There
The starting point on the Midosuji subway line is Umeda Stn. Our destination is Miyakojima Stn., also on the subway line.
The Osaka subway system is a crisscross of spaghetti, like many subway networks around the world. Where one line intersects with another it's possible to get off and change lines without exiting the station and voiding your ticket. Umeda Stn. is a little unique in this respect. Within walking distance are Nishi-Umeda Stn. (Yotsubashi Line) and Higashi-Umeda Stn. (Tanimachi Line). However, there are no tunnels or passageways within the stations connecting them and you need to physically exit one to enter the other. Unfortunately for us though, the quickest way to get to Miyakojima Stn. is to travel from Higashi-Umeda Stn. This would normally involve having to exit the station and buy another ticket.
If you are in the Osaka Station/Umeda area, but not stuck inside subway Umeda Stn., of course it's no problem. Follow the signs to the Tanimachi Line and/or Higashi-Umeda Stn. and you're good to go. If you have a ticket to get you to Miyakojima Stn. you may be able exit subway Umeda Stn. with your ticket in hand to enter back into Higashi-Umeda, but you need to be quick about it. First, go to the ticket gate of Umeda Stn., but don't put your ticket through the ticket wicket because it will eat it up and you'll never get it back. Instead, show it to the attendant at the window and in your most overbearing accented Japanese say "Higashi-Umeda, Miyakojima." If it worked, you'll be allowed to leave the station with your ticket in hand. Now follow the signs and go straight to Higashi-Umeda Stn., show your ticket to the attendant there and again say "Miyakojima." If that works, he'll wave you through and you can be on your merry way. However, be careful. If too much time has elapsed since you bought the ticket, you may not be allowed though.
The Tanimachi Line also has a direct connection in the south with Tennoji Stn. It takes longer, but you can jump on the subway there and go straight to Miyakojima Stn. in about 20 minutes.
Getting Your Bearings at Miyakojima Station
The geometry around Miyakojima Stn. is a little odd, but all you do is go out Exit 1 and then take your second right and then the first right after that. That will put you inside the arcade. From there, take your third left to get to the mound. Refer to the map below.
Map courtesy of Google Maps
Here is a satellite view of the final left turn.
Map/image courtesy of Google Maps
Photo Credit: Gragma's Yokai Tourbus
Photo Credit: Gragma's Yokai Tourbus
Driver Gragma (yokaitourbus "at" mail "dot" com)
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/yokaitourbus/
The Master List (Osaka)
http://yokaitourbus.blogspot.jp/2015/08/6-the-master-list-osaka.html
(yokai) Nue (鵺)
Site: Grave of the Nue, or Nuezuka (鵺塚) in Osaka
Nearest Station: Subway Miyakojima Stn. (都島駅)
Google Map Search: NA
