Associated with: Nue aka "the Japanese chimera"
Let's briefly go back to the tale. As per the last entry, the nue began appearing in the Kyoto night sky. Perhaps one of the reasons why it vexed Emperor Konoe so much was because it appeared directly above the Seiryo-den, the building within the palace grounds in which the emperor slept. In other words, Emperor Konoe had a nue just outside his bedroom window. Now, there is still a building called the Seiryo-den within the grounds of the Kyoto Imperial Palace, but it's not the same structure. In fact, it's not even the same palace.
Using our previous entry on Rashomon, find it on a map and put your finger or cursor on the site. This used to be the point marking halfway between east and west on the southern border of the old capital. That means if you move your finger or cursor north along from Rashomon, you should hit the imperial palace. What you'll find is that you pass Nijo Castle on your right and the palace itself further to the east. The reason is that 1153 puts us back to the time of the original Heian Palace, which was located center along the north border of the original layout. However, within around only 50 years of Konoe's reign, many fires led to the Heian Palace's gradual dissue, and sadly it no longer exists. (To give you an idea of its original location, the southeast corner of the palace's outer wall is thought to have been in the center of present-day Nijo Castle.)
What is then the connection with the current imperial palace? Well for one, it will give you an idea of what things may have looked like when you're standing in the middle of the children's playground I'm going to send you to later. As for scope, the area of the current imperial palace is a little shorter east to west, but about the same north to south. Also, on its grounds within the inner palace is a building called the Seiryo-den, which served much the same function as the Seiryo-den of the original palace. What's more, the most recent restoration has been done in the style of the emperor's residence during the Heian Period, so you can see for yourself what it must have been like for poor Emperor Konoe. Unfortunately, one does not simply walk into the Seiryo-den, but it is possible to get a look at it on a guided tour.
Comments: The Kyoto Imperial Palace will give you a feel of the setting of Emperor Konoe's surroundings in 1153. Don't be too put off that it's under the wrong bit of sky. After all, it is still the Kyoto Imperial Palace, a location with a long history of its own!
Getting There
The starting point on the Midosuji subway line is Umeda Stn. Our destination is (Kyoto) subway Imadegawa Stn.
Umeda Stn. lies next to Osaka Stn., a large hub of intersecting JR lines. From subway Umeda, follow the signs directing you to JR Osaka Stn. Unlike Umeda, there is only one "Osaka" station, but south there is another JR station called Kitashinchi. Though you'll likely find Osaka Stn. with your eyes closed, if you are following "JR" signs and you've been walking for longer than 5 minutes or so there is a small possibility you've made a wrong turn. I again want to point out that we're starting at subway Umeda Stn. to keep it in line with our Midosuji Line-centered travel, but if you are staying in the Osaka Stn. area or near a station on the Loop Line, you obviously needn't worry about the subway for this trip.
As for Osaka Stn., it's a big one so take your time finding your platform. The longest that you'll wait for a train leaving for Kyoto is 10 minutes, so don't rush and don't stress out. Just take your time to follow the signs and directions to the platform and you will be fine.
As for Kyoto Stn., it's on the Kyoto Line stretch of the Tokaido Main Line. The Tokaido Line continues past Osaka Stn. and Kyoto Stn., but the sections of it are named differently according to its location. The Kyoto Line operates in combination with the Biwako Line (and JR Kobe Line in the opposite direction). This means a train service will likely not terminate at Kyoto Stn. but continue uninterrupted on the next stretch of line. So, for example, trains at Osaka Stn. leaving for Nagahama, Maibara or Yasu, will all stop without fail at Kyoto Stn. as they are all on the Tokaido Main Line past Kyoto. In other words, you need to look for trains going in the direction of Kyoto or trains stopping at Kyoto, as the train services won't necessarily be labeled as "Kyoto Trains" because they almost certainly won't be terminating there.
Take the shinkaisoku, or special rapid service train from Osaka. You can also take the kaisoku, or rapid service train, but it will add more time to your trip. If it's a consideration, the kaisoku is a bit easier to get a seat on compared to the the special rapid service. At Kyoto Station you need to then change to the subway. The subway is a different train company, so what you're doing is going through the ticket gates and moving to a different part of the station complex, rather than just changing platforms. Here, change to the green Karasuma Line. Imadegawa Stn. is five stops in the direction of Kokusaikaikan.
Getting Your Bearings at Imadegawa Station
At Imadegawa Stn., go out at Exit 6. There are many gates along the border of the Kyoto Imperial Park, which is the outer wall of the palace grounds. The route below will get you to the entrance closest to the Imperial Household Agency Office, which is where you need to check in for a guided tour.
Map courtesy of Google Maps
Thanks to the magic of MS Paint, the Imperial Household Agency Office is indicated via the red arrow below.
Image courtesy of Google Maps
The Kyoto Imperial Palace is to the east of the Imperial Household Agency Office.
Image courtesy of Google Maps
The Seiryo-den is located in the southern portion of the palace.
Image courtesy of Google Maps
Information on the Kyoto Imperial Palace or Kyoto Gosho
The Kyoto Imperial Palace is located within the grounds of the Kyoto Imperial Park, or Kyoto Gyoen (京都御苑). The Seiryo-den, inside which Emperor Konoe cowered and above which the nue glowered, is located within the Kyoto Imperial Palace. It is a building inside a rectangle inside a rectangle. Anybody can enter the Imperial Park, but to get into the palace, you almost always need to book yourself onto a guided tour arranged by the Imperial Household Agency. This can be done online, but you can often join a group on the day by registering yourself at the Agency Office on the park grounds with your passport.
The Imperial Agency Office is open from Monday to Friday from 8:45 to 12:00 and from 13:00 to 17:00. Sundays and national holidays are unavailable for tours, as is December 29 to January 3. Saturdays are usually out too, except during the months of March, April, May, October, and November. National holidays in Japan sometimes fall on a Saturday, but when they fall on a Saturday during any of the above months, tours are conducted as usual. English tours are conducted at 10:00 and 14:00.
Getting into the Kyoto Imperial Palace sounds like a major pain in the backside compared to any other sites you would care to visit, but practically speaking you can usually get in on the same day, so don't let the rigmarole put you off if you are interested in going. Entrance is free, baby!
Finally, it's worth again pointing out that the Imperial Agency Office is located in the north end of the park grounds, as is the entrance to the Imperial Palace. Unless you don't mind the walk, accessing it via Imadegawa Stn. is advised.
Driver Gragma (yokaitourbus "at" mail "dot" com)
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/yokaitourbus/
The Master List (Kyoto)
http://yokaitourbus.blogspot.jp/2015/08/6-c-master-list-kyoto.html
(yokai) Nue (鵺)
Site: The Kyoto Imperial Palace, or Kyoto Gosho (京都御所)
Nearest Station: (Subway Line) Imadegawa Stn. (今出川駅) in the north (recommended) or subway Marutamachi Stn. (丸太町) in the south (possible)
Google Map Search: "Kyoto Imperial Palace"
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