xxxii. Okiku's Well (お菊井戸)

Location: Himeji City (near Himeji Stn., JR Line), Hyogo Prefecture; about 1 hour from Osaka or 40 min. from Kobe + 20 min. walking time

Associated with: The ghost of Okiku

The tour bus is making a late departure in 2018, but tearing out of the depot with a classic tale at an A-grade tourist site. Most yokai fans will have come across the ghost story featuring the Okikuido (Okiku's Well), usually going by the name Bancho Sarayashiki (番町皿屋敷), or the Dish Mansion at Bancho. Many are also aware of its association with Himeji Castle, even though the Tokyo residential area of Bancho is nowhere near the city of Himeji.

The story rose to prominence when it hit the stage during the Edo period in puppet shows and kabuki plays. These first-in-best-dressed appearances probably account for the Edo setting of Bancho (番町). However, it's also known by the nearly identical title of Dish Mansion at Banshu (播州皿屋敷), Banshu referring to Harima Province or modern-day Hyogo, the prefecture in which Himeji is located. These days it's possible to visit Okiku's Well, but only on a tour of Himeji Castle, generally considered the finest castle in Japan.

Photo Credit: Gragma's Yokai Tourbus

The following is a Banshu account that dates back to 1577. The telling makes an attempt (albeit a weak one) to fit in with recorded history. 

In 1504, the lord of Himeji castle Kodera Toyomoto died and was succeeded by his son Norimoto. The Kodera clan's chief retainer Aoyama Tetsuzan thought to take advantage during this time of uncertainty, plotting to seize the castle and be rid of Norimoto. This he conspired to do by poisoning him at a cherry blossom viewing party (a kind of picnic/outdoor booze-up). A loyal retainer of Norimoto's, a fellow by the name of Kinugasa Motonobu, suspected Tetsuzan of scheming, and so sent his mistress Okiku to work undercover as his maid.

Meanwhile, Tetsuzan shared his party-popping plans with his son Kogoro, who had the courage to tell his father that what he had planned wasn't very nice. Not impressed with his son's lack of enthusiasm, Tetsuzan had him confined lest his conscience get the better of him. With no one else to talk to, Kogoro instead confided in their new maid Okiku, and she informed her lover Motonobu just in time for him to save lord Norimoto from an early demise. Despite being thwarted, Tetsuzan continued his plotting and with the help of the Uragami clan overthrew Himeji Castle while Norimoto was away.

Let's recap who we've met so far. We have Kodera Toyomoto, recently deceased, and his son Norimoto, the rightful lord of Himeji Castle. We have his treacherous retainer Aoyama Tetsuzan and Tetsuzan's virtuous son Kogoro. We also have Norimoto's faithful retainer Kinugasa Motonobu, and his mistress Okiku. The Uragami clan made a brief appearance, but we won't hear from them again.

Enter Chonotsubo Danshiro. Not satisfied with becoming lord of the castle, Tetsuzan hired Danshiro to investigate the failed assassination attempt. It didn't take long for him to uncover Okiku as the mole, but instead of informing Tetsuzan, Danshiro tried to blackmail Okiku into becoming his mistress. Okiku refused.

While it would have been logical at this point to turn Okiku in, Danshiro decided to try something different. What he did was hide one of the ten precious china plates that had been entrusted to Okiku for safekeeping by the departing Kodera clan. The continued safety of these plates was apparently still her responsibility, and so when it became known that one of the plates was missing, Aoyama sentenced Okiku to death. Danshiro then tied Okiku to a tree and flogged her, thinking that a beating on top of a looming death sentence would make her agree to be his mistress. Okiku refused again. Furious with yet another rejection, Danshiro murdered the bound Okiku and threw her body down a well.

Photo Credit: Gragma's Yokai Tourbus

And well, well, well, her voice began to be heard each night coming from that well, counting the plates, "1, 2, 3..." and stopping short of ten as she is famously known to have done. As a result of the continuing phenomenon, the castle became known as the Dish Mansion.

In an epilogue of sorts, Motonobu gathered his forces and retook Himeji Castle, causing Tetsuzan to flee. The ever virtuous Kogoro, ashamed of his father's actions, committed suicide. Chonotsubo Danshiro, violent tormenter and murderer, was uncharacteristically thoughtful and returned the plate. This wasn't enough for the younger siblings of Okiku, who captured Danshiro and avenged her. For Okiku's loyalty, the Kodera clan erected a shrine in her honor.

Photo Credit: Gragma's Yokai Tourbus

This telling of the Dish Mansion, titled a "true account," stumbles a bit with its historical accuracy and large cast of characters but manages to propel the tale along well enough. Glaringly, Norimoto was only nine years old in 1504 and Toyomoto had been dead for more than ten years, he actually being Norimoto's grandfather. (The two never met.) While it's true that Norimoto was the last Kodera lord of Himeji Castle, he held the post until 1531 and only relinquished it to take over from his real father as lord of nearby Gochaku Castle. Himeji Castle then went to the Kuroda clan, a vassal of the Koderas. Norimoto died in 1576, and supposedly it was in the following year that the above tale took shape.

Considering the story's other incarnations in which the location of the Dish Mansion is often unspecified, it's interesting that this telling zooms in on Himeji Castle. One theory is that the Tsurubetori Well (釣瓶取井戸), the original name of the water well now known as Okiku's Well, was once part of a secret passageway. The rumor of a ghostly haunting would encourage people to stay away or at least not linger or examine it too closely.

Photo Credit: Gragma's Yokai Tourbus

Comments: Himeji Castle finished up a restoration job in 2015 just in time for the influx of tourists the region has seen these past few years. Not surprisingly, the most striking difference this time I visited was the number of people. The constant shuttling and shuffling of tour groups left less time to admire the keep's interior, but the castle is a must-see if you can squeeze in a day trip to Himeji.

Getting There

The starting point on the Midosuji subway line is Umeda Stn. Our destination is Himeji Stn. on the JR line.

Umeda Stn. lies next to Osaka Stn., a large hub of intersecting JR lines. From subway Umeda, follow the signs directing you to JR Osaka Stn. Unlike Umeda, there is only one "Osaka" station, but south there is another JR station called Kitashinchi. Though you'll likely find Osaka Stn. with your eyes closed, if you are following "JR" signs  and you've been walking for longer than 5 minutes or so there is a small possibility you've made a wrong turn. I again want to point out that we're starting at subway Umeda Stn. to keep it in line with our Midosuji Line-centered travel, but if you are staying in the Osaka Stn. area or near a station on the Loop Line, you obviously needn't worry about the subway for this trip.

From Osaka, it's silly to take anything slower than a shinkaisoku, or special rapid service train. They usually depart every 10 or 15 minutes depending on the time of day, so if you've just missed one, buy a doughnut or something and line up for the next service. Himeji is on the JR Kobe Line portion of the Sanyo Main Line. Here again we are simply talking about different sections of one long continuous line. What is known as the "JR Kobe Line" is part of the Tokaido Main Line from Osaka to Kobe and part of the Sanyo Main Line from Kobe to Himeji. Again, it's all the same line.

On the shinkaisoku, Himeji is eight stops and approximately 60 minutes from Osaka, usually the last stop on the special rapid service. Don't be surprised if you find yourself standing the whole way, but know that at least you'll be making good time. Around Sannomiya or Kobe you might be able to get a seat.

Getting Your Bearings at Himeji Station

The castle will be on your right (north) as you pull into Himeji Station. It's an imposing landmark and visible from different vantage points once you're on the ground. You can't miss it but here's a map:

Map courtesy of Google Maps

Most people walk along the main drag to get to the castle, but running parallel is an undercover shotengai (Japanese-style shopping mall). The only downside is that the castle won't be in view as you approach, which could be a consideration if you want to take photos. The location of the mall is indicated in red below.

Map courtesy of Google Maps

Okiku's Well is clearly marked with an English signboard in an open area of Himeji Castle called the Kamiyamasato. You'll come to it along the tour route of the castle after having exited the castle keep. In that sense it will feel like you're coming to it on your way out. Try to take your time as best you can to enjoy the interior of the keep, and every now and then glance out a window to see if you can catch a glimpse of Okiku's Well.

Photo Credit: Gragma's Yokai Tourbus

Okiku Shrine

If you're so inclined you can pay your respects at Junisho Shrine (十二所神社), which is located just west of Himeji Station. On the grounds is an auxiliary shrine in honor of Okiku (お菊神社).

Map courtesy of Google Maps

There are several entrances to the grounds of Junisho Shrine. Okiku Shrine is easily accessed from the northern entrance. It's immediately on the right after passing through the torii gate. 

Image courtesy of Google Maps

Image courtesy of Google Maps

Information on Himeji Castle

Himeji Castle opens at 9:00 and closes at 16:00. Except for December 30 and 31, the castle is open all year around.


Driver Gragma (yokaitourbus "at" mail "dot" com)
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/yokaitourbus/

The Master List (Hyogo)
http://yokaitourbus.blogspot.jp/2015/08/6-b-master-list-hyogo.html

(ghost) Okiku's Well (お菊井戸)
Site: Himeji Castle (姫路城)
Nearest Station: (JR) Himeji Stn. (姫路駅)
Google Map Search: "Himeji Castle"

xxxi. Something Old, Something New, Something Borrowed, Something Blue (サムシング・フォー) or "The Demon of Gango-ji" Part 4

Reaching the end of this series, we can take a moment to look back on our first three entries. Kionzan, Gango-ji Temple, and the Crossroad of Suspicion have made a nice trio of sites, all within walking distance of each other. The doomed thief started out as a servant at Gango-ji, hid at Kionzan, died at the crossroads, terrorized Gango-ji again as a demon before finally being driven back to the grave. His old hideout is now a lovely hotel.

Except amigos, we have a bit of a problemo. Our tale took place shortly after the reign of Emperor Bidatsu (r. 572 to 585), during whose lifetime we have the events leading up to Dojo's birth. The construction of Gango-ji Temple itself began in 588 after Bidatsu's death and was completed in 596, making it one of Japan's oldest Buddhist temples. Dojo was an acolyte there sometime after. Unfortunately for us, the date we need to contend with is 718, because it's this date about 100 years after our tale when Gango-ji was moved 30 kilometers north to where it is now.

Something Old

That's right. In Dojo's time Gango-ji was known as Hoko-ji (法興寺), where now sits another temple, also called Hoko-ji but more commonly known as Asuka-dera (飛鳥寺). The original account of our tale comes via the Nihon Ryoiki (日本霊異記, Ghostly Strange Records from Japan), which itself dates back to the late 8th/early 9th century. Aside from the "new" Gango-ji's close proximity to Kionzan and the Crossroad of Suspicion, one can presume from the date published that the author was referring to the temple's current site rather than the temple that the real Dojo would have been familiar with. If we use the old site as our "Gango-ji" the story only now works with some serious cross-country efforts on the part of the main characters.

Map courtesy of Google Maps

So is there anything interesting about Asuka-dera that makes it worth a visit?

Well.... sure. It's pretty good. One of the temple's residents who didn't make the trip north was the Daibutsu, or "Great Buddha" statue. It's the oldest extant Buddhist image in Japan where the date of construction is known: 605. (Zenkoji Temple in Nagano claims to hold the first examples of Buddhist statuary brought from Korea to Japan the previous century.)

What may interest us more is that Asuka-dera seems to be one of the earliest repositories in Japan for relics of the Shakyamuni Buddha (Siddhartha Gautama, the historical Buddha). The relics were placed in 593 within the foundation stone of the temple's pagoda by Soga no Umako, an early Japanese proponent of Buddhism. The excavated remains of the objects buried under the Asuka-dera pagoda are now housed in the Asuka Historical Museum, about a fifteen-minute walk north of the temple. Both the temple and the museum are located in the village of Asuka, which contains many wonderful sites from the Asuka Period. If you're fascinated by ancient Japanese culture, then I definitely recommend a trip.

Asuka village is best accessed from the Kintetsu Line. The following map shows three stations you can use to get to the museum and the temple (circled). You can rent a bicycle from outside Kashiharajingu-mae and Asuka Stations, but the trip makes for a nice walk as well. There are many other sites to see around here, so Google yourself up an itinerary and enjoy a day exploring the area. Perhaps we'll revisit it again in a future entry.

Map courtesy of Google Maps

Something New... er

Putting ourselves back on familiar ground in the north, our "something new" is Shin-yakushi-ji (新薬師寺), a temple east of the Crossroad of Suspicion. It's technically newer than the latest incarnation of Gango-ji, and the first Chinese character in its name shin generally translates as "new." (The temple was actually founded in 747, and "shin" here is said to not have the meaning of new but "miraculous.")

 Image courtesy of Google Maps

Something Borrowed

Shin-yakushi-ji does however have a belfry that houses a rather splendid bell. While the belfry was constructed in 1279, the bell itself is much older and reportedly the very one that once hung at Gango-ji during the time our tale took place. In fact, if you look closely you can still see where the demon dragged his fingernails across it.

I'm not sure how Shin-yakushi-ji ended up with Gango-ji's bell, though many of these behemoths are surprisingly well-traveled. This one dates back to the Nara Period, meaning it could have come via Gango-ji. There is a tiny window where the bell may have started out at Hoko-ji before making the move north, but Dojo, the demon and everyone else were long gone by then. (Can I borrow some imagination too?)

Shin-yakushi-ji is about a 40-minute walk from JR Nara Stn. or Kintetsu-Nara Stn., or a 20 min. walk from the Crossroad of Suspicion.

Map courtesy of Google Maps

Something Blue

I must apologize since it has been quite a while since the last post. No doubt you have all been holding your breaths in anticipation waiting for this to come out, so your faces I'm sure must be extremely blue by now. Your humble driver has been out adventuring for your continued entertainment and will do his best to pick up the pace in the weeks to come!


Driver Gragma (yokaitourbus "at" mail "dot" com)
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/yokaitourbus/

xxx. The Crossroad of Suspicion (不審ヶ辻) or "The Demon of Gango-ji" Part 3

Location: Nara City (near Nara Stn., JR Line or Kintetsu-Nara Stn., Kintetsu Line), Nara Prefecture; about 30-40 min. from Osaka + 20 min. walking time; or a 3 min. walk from Gango-ji Temple.

Associated with: The Demon of Gango-ji (元興寺の鬼)

Our destination for this entry has been sitting like a spoiler on the maps of our last two entries, that being a little star marking the nondescript Crossroad of Suspicion, or Fushin ga Tsuji. 

Picking up our story, the demon tore itself from the acolyte's grip and fled the belfry. Following the trail of blood left by its scalp, the acolyte pursued it to a grassy crossroad, where it vanished. The youngster searched furiously, but the demon was gone, never to be seen again. The crossroad was of course the very location where the thief and ex-servant of Gango-ji had been put to death.

Artist Unknown, Edo Period (Source: Yokai Zukan, Kyogoku & Tada, Kokusho Kankokai, 2000 via https://ja.wikipedia.org/)

The acolyte in time became a lay brother, and after other impressive deeds was ordained and given the name Dojo. He is thought to have been a real historical figure, but the Chinese characters for his name (道場) are the same as a martial arts dojo, so while an intriguing fellow it takes a few tries to find him with a search engine.

Comments: The Crossroad of Suspicion is only a three-minute walk from Gango-ji. At the juncture is a sweet shop that uses the crossroad as a point of reference, so these days it's a delicious "Crossroad of Confection."

Getting There

The crossroad is about a block and a half north of Gango-ji. You can get there using the map below.

Map courtesy of Google Maps

 Photo Credit: Gragma's Yokai Tourbus

Driver Gragma (yokaitourbus "at" mail "dot" com)
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/yokaitourbus/

The Master List (Nara):
http://yokaitourbus.blogspot.jp/2015/08/6-e-master-list-nara.html

(yokai) The Demon of Gango-ji (元興寺の鬼)
Site: The Crossroad of Suspicion or Fushin ga Tsuji (不審ヶ辻)
Nearest Station: (JR Line) Nara Stn. (奈良駅)
Google Map Search: NA