xxxii. Okiku's Well (お菊井戸)

Location: Himeji City (near Himeji Stn., JR Line), Hyogo Prefecture; about 1 hour from Osaka or 40 min. from Kobe + 20 min. walking time

Associated with: The ghost of Okiku

The tour bus is making a late departure in 2018, but tearing out of the depot with a classic tale at an A-grade tourist site. Most yokai fans will have come across the ghost story featuring the Okikuido (Okiku's Well), usually going by the name Bancho Sarayashiki (番町皿屋敷), or the Dish Mansion at Bancho. Many are also aware of its association with Himeji Castle, even though the Tokyo residential area of Bancho is nowhere near the city of Himeji.

The story rose to prominence when it hit the stage during the Edo period in puppet shows and kabuki plays. These first-in-best-dressed appearances probably account for the Edo setting of Bancho (番町). However, it's also known by the nearly identical title of Dish Mansion at Banshu (播州皿屋敷), Banshu referring to Harima Province or modern-day Hyogo, the prefecture in which Himeji is located. These days it's possible to visit Okiku's Well, but only on a tour of Himeji Castle, generally considered the finest castle in Japan.

Photo Credit: Gragma's Yokai Tourbus

The following is a Banshu account that dates back to 1577. The telling makes an attempt (albeit a weak one) to fit in with recorded history. 

In 1504, the lord of Himeji castle Kodera Toyomoto died and was succeeded by his son Norimoto. The Kodera clan's chief retainer Aoyama Tetsuzan thought to take advantage during this time of uncertainty, plotting to seize the castle and be rid of Norimoto. This he conspired to do by poisoning him at a cherry blossom viewing party (a kind of picnic/outdoor booze-up). A loyal retainer of Norimoto's, a fellow by the name of Kinugasa Motonobu, suspected Tetsuzan of scheming, and so sent his mistress Okiku to work undercover as his maid.

Meanwhile, Tetsuzan shared his party-popping plans with his son Kogoro, who had the courage to tell his father that what he had planned wasn't very nice. Not impressed with his son's lack of enthusiasm, Tetsuzan had him confined lest his conscience get the better of him. With no one else to talk to, Kogoro instead confided in their new maid Okiku, and she informed her lover Motonobu just in time for him to save lord Norimoto from an early demise. Despite being thwarted, Tetsuzan continued his plotting and with the help of the Uragami clan overthrew Himeji Castle while Norimoto was away.

Let's recap who we've met so far. We have Kodera Toyomoto, recently deceased, and his son Norimoto, the rightful lord of Himeji Castle. We have his treacherous retainer Aoyama Tetsuzan and Tetsuzan's virtuous son Kogoro. We also have Norimoto's faithful retainer Kinugasa Motonobu, and his mistress Okiku. The Uragami clan made a brief appearance, but we won't hear from them again.

Enter Chonotsubo Danshiro. Not satisfied with becoming lord of the castle, Tetsuzan hired Danshiro to investigate the failed assassination attempt. It didn't take long for him to uncover Okiku as the mole, but instead of informing Tetsuzan, Danshiro tried to blackmail Okiku into becoming his mistress. Okiku refused.

While it would have been logical at this point to turn Okiku in, Danshiro decided to try something different. What he did was hide one of the ten precious china plates that had been entrusted to Okiku for safekeeping by the departing Kodera clan. The continued safety of these plates was apparently still her responsibility, and so when it became known that one of the plates was missing, Aoyama sentenced Okiku to death. Danshiro then tied Okiku to a tree and flogged her, thinking that a beating on top of a looming death sentence would make her agree to be his mistress. Okiku refused again. Furious with yet another rejection, Danshiro murdered the bound Okiku and threw her body down a well.

Photo Credit: Gragma's Yokai Tourbus

And well, well, well, her voice began to be heard each night coming from that well, counting the plates, "1, 2, 3..." and stopping short of ten as she is famously known to have done. As a result of the continuing phenomenon, the castle became known as the Dish Mansion.

In an epilogue of sorts, Motonobu gathered his forces and retook Himeji Castle, causing Tetsuzan to flee. The ever virtuous Kogoro, ashamed of his father's actions, committed suicide. Chonotsubo Danshiro, violent tormenter and murderer, was uncharacteristically thoughtful and returned the plate. This wasn't enough for the younger siblings of Okiku, who captured Danshiro and avenged her. For Okiku's loyalty, the Kodera clan erected a shrine in her honor.

Photo Credit: Gragma's Yokai Tourbus

This telling of the Dish Mansion, titled a "true account," stumbles a bit with its historical accuracy and large cast of characters but manages to propel the tale along well enough. Glaringly, Norimoto was only nine years old in 1504 and Toyomoto had been dead for more than ten years, he actually being Norimoto's grandfather. (The two never met.) While it's true that Norimoto was the last Kodera lord of Himeji Castle, he held the post until 1531 and only relinquished it to take over from his real father as lord of nearby Gochaku Castle. Himeji Castle then went to the Kuroda clan, a vassal of the Koderas. Norimoto died in 1576, and supposedly it was in the following year that the above tale took shape.

Considering the story's other incarnations in which the location of the Dish Mansion is often unspecified, it's interesting that this telling zooms in on Himeji Castle. One theory is that the Tsurubetori Well (釣瓶取井戸), the original name of the water well now known as Okiku's Well, was once part of a secret passageway. The rumor of a ghostly haunting would encourage people to stay away or at least not linger or examine it too closely.

Photo Credit: Gragma's Yokai Tourbus

Comments: Himeji Castle finished up a restoration job in 2015 just in time for the influx of tourists the region has seen these past few years. Not surprisingly, the most striking difference this time I visited was the number of people. The constant shuttling and shuffling of tour groups left less time to admire the keep's interior, but the castle is a must-see if you can squeeze in a day trip to Himeji.

Getting There

The starting point on the Midosuji subway line is Umeda Stn. Our destination is Himeji Stn. on the JR line.

Umeda Stn. lies next to Osaka Stn., a large hub of intersecting JR lines. From subway Umeda, follow the signs directing you to JR Osaka Stn. Unlike Umeda, there is only one "Osaka" station, but south there is another JR station called Kitashinchi. Though you'll likely find Osaka Stn. with your eyes closed, if you are following "JR" signs  and you've been walking for longer than 5 minutes or so there is a small possibility you've made a wrong turn. I again want to point out that we're starting at subway Umeda Stn. to keep it in line with our Midosuji Line-centered travel, but if you are staying in the Osaka Stn. area or near a station on the Loop Line, you obviously needn't worry about the subway for this trip.

From Osaka, it's silly to take anything slower than a shinkaisoku, or special rapid service train. They usually depart every 10 or 15 minutes depending on the time of day, so if you've just missed one, buy a doughnut or something and line up for the next service. Himeji is on the JR Kobe Line portion of the Sanyo Main Line. Here again we are simply talking about different sections of one long continuous line. What is known as the "JR Kobe Line" is part of the Tokaido Main Line from Osaka to Kobe and part of the Sanyo Main Line from Kobe to Himeji. Again, it's all the same line.

On the shinkaisoku, Himeji is eight stops and approximately 60 minutes from Osaka, usually the last stop on the special rapid service. Don't be surprised if you find yourself standing the whole way, but know that at least you'll be making good time. Around Sannomiya or Kobe you might be able to get a seat.

Getting Your Bearings at Himeji Station

The castle will be on your right (north) as you pull into Himeji Station. It's an imposing landmark and visible from different vantage points once you're on the ground. You can't miss it but here's a map:

Map courtesy of Google Maps

Most people walk along the main drag to get to the castle, but running parallel is an undercover shotengai (Japanese-style shopping mall). The only downside is that the castle won't be in view as you approach, which could be a consideration if you want to take photos. The location of the mall is indicated in red below.

Map courtesy of Google Maps

Okiku's Well is clearly marked with an English signboard in an open area of Himeji Castle called the Kamiyamasato. You'll come to it along the tour route of the castle after having exited the castle keep. In that sense it will feel like you're coming to it on your way out. Try to take your time as best you can to enjoy the interior of the keep, and every now and then glance out a window to see if you can catch a glimpse of Okiku's Well.

Photo Credit: Gragma's Yokai Tourbus

Okiku Shrine

If you're so inclined you can pay your respects at Junisho Shrine (十二所神社), which is located just west of Himeji Station. On the grounds is an auxiliary shrine in honor of Okiku (お菊神社).

Map courtesy of Google Maps

There are several entrances to the grounds of Junisho Shrine. Okiku Shrine is easily accessed from the northern entrance. It's immediately on the right after passing through the torii gate. 

Image courtesy of Google Maps

Image courtesy of Google Maps

Information on Himeji Castle

Himeji Castle opens at 9:00 and closes at 16:00. Except for December 30 and 31, the castle is open all year around.


Driver Gragma (yokaitourbus "at" mail "dot" com)
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/yokaitourbus/

The Master List (Hyogo)
http://yokaitourbus.blogspot.jp/2015/08/6-b-master-list-hyogo.html

(ghost) Okiku's Well (お菊井戸)
Site: Himeji Castle (姫路城)
Nearest Station: (JR) Himeji Stn. (姫路駅)
Google Map Search: "Himeji Castle"