Associated with: The Demon of Gango-ji (元興寺の鬼)
It was not by chance that the thief had been buried at a crossroads. His capacity for performing wicked deeds in life coupled with his violent death was a predictor for the havoc his spirit would wreak once departed, and it was believed that the heavy foot traffic at a juncture like a crossroads would keep the spirit literally "downtrodden." It's not a sure thing though.
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Some years later at the end of the century (around the year 600), Gango-ji Temple began having a problem with its bell. Namely, when someone went to try and ring the bell at night they'd get eaten by a demon. A young acolyte, who had proven himself capable prior to joining the temple with his ability to throw big rocks, came up with a plan to catch it. The idea was to set four men at each corner of the belfry next to a lamp, and when the demon appeared, have them uncover the lamps and expose the demon to the light. I'm not sure if this was to exorcise it, scare it off, or just get a really good look at it, but apparently this was the extent of the plan.
Artist Unknown, Edo Period (Source: The Art of Japanese Supernatural Beings from YUMOTO Koichi Collection, PIE International, 2013)
On the night in question, the demon appeared but fled when it spotted the young acolyte hiding near the door. It crept back again before dawn, and this time the acolyte was able to catch it, seizing it by the hair. The men meanwhile had become paralyzed with fear and the young acolyte had to light each lamp himself, dragging the struggling demon as he went. Just as he was lighting the last lamp, the demon's scalp tore free, giving it the chance it needed to escape and leaving behind the young acolyte with a handful of hair...
Comments: Gango-ji was one of the seven great temples of Nara, but not much of it remains. Once a sprawling complex taking up nine square blocks, only two main structures have survived as part of the temple today (three if you count the miniature pagoda). The bell from the tale is no longer here, but reputedly the demon's scalp is still housed as a treasure. Like the Nara Hotel, the location is central and easy to get to.
Getting There
Gango-ji is a short walk southwest from the Nara Hotel. You can get there using the map below.
Map courtesy of Google Maps
Image courtesy of Google Maps
Information on Gango-ji Temple
The temple opens at 9:00 and closes at 17:00. Visitors will not be admitted after 16:30, so aim to get there by at least 16:29. You need to pay to enter.
Driver Gragma (yokaitourbus "at" mail "dot" com)
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/yokaitourbus/
The Master List (Nara):
http://yokaitourbus.blogspot.jp/2015/08/6-e-master-list-nara.html
(yokai) The Demon of Gango-ji (元興寺の鬼)
Site: Gango-ji (元興寺)
Nearest Station: (JR Line) Nara Stn. (奈良駅) or Kyobate Stn. (京終駅)
Google Map Search: "Gango-ji Nara"
