Saturday, February 18, 2017

xxviii. Nara Hotel (奈良ホテル) or "The Demon of Gango-ji" Part 1

Location: Nara City (near Nara Stn., JR Line or Kintetsu-Nara Stn., Kintetsu Line), Nara Prefecture; about 30-40 min. from Osaka + 15-20 min. walking time

Associated with: The Demon of Gango-ji (元興寺の鬼)

During the Asuka Period (538-710) around the latter half of the 6th century, there was a thief who resided on a forested rise known locally as Kionzan (鬼隠山), or "the demon-hiding mountain." Previously the thief had been a servant of Gango-ji Temple but was expelled for his wicked behavior. One day, he made the mistake of leaving his hideout to burglarize the Matsuura residence, the head of which happened to be the town chief. The thief was caught and punished by being thrown into a deep pit at a narrow crossroads. There he was left to die.
Photo Credit: Gragma's Yokai Tourbus

We'll save the rest of the tale for future entries and fast forward 800 years or so to the Muromachi Period. During this time, disputes were intensifying between rival clans in Yamato Province (present day Nara Prefecture). Two large factions were the Tsutsui clan in the north and the Ochi clan in the south. In 1444, the Ochi clan fortified a rise on the grounds of Daijo-in (a sub-temple of Gango-ji) and there built a castle, calling it Kionzan Castle (鬼薗山城) for the hill it occupied (note the character in the middle is now "garden" and not "hiding"). The following year it fell to the attacking Tsutsui force, but was reclaimed by the Ochi in 1455. Continuous fighting took its toll and in 1458 the castle was abandoned, thoroughly destroyed. Nothing remains of it today.

Later at the beginning of the 20th century it was suggested that the same land be used as part of the approach to Todaiji Temple, but the idea was rejected in favor of the emerging tourist industry and in July 1906 it was registered under the name "Nara Hotel." Not long after in 1909 the hotel was opened for business. Besides a burglar from the 6th century, the grounds have accommodated the likes of Albert Einstein, Helen Keller, Bertrand Russell, and Audrey Hepburn.

Comments: A nice building, but it's probably enough just to look at it as you walk past. The hotel is in a very touristy part of Nara, so I have no problem recommending you visit the general area. The aforementioned Todaiji Temple is just to the north and you'd be insane not to check it out.

Getting There

The starting point on the Midosuji subway line is Tennoji Stn. with the destination being Nara Stn. if you plan to go via JR. You can also travel to Kintetsu-Nara Stn., taking the Kintetsu line from Namba Stn. You'll spend less time on the train using JR, but more time walking to the site. On Kintetsu, the situation is reversed. What I'll do is give directions using the slightly more popular JR, but will show the location of Kintetsu-Nara Stn. on the map for reference.

At subway Tennoji Stn., you need to change to the JR line. JR Tennoji Stn. can be accessed via the JR Loop Line, so if your hotel is near Osaka Stn., Kyobashi (Osaka Castle area), or anywhere else along the loop, forgo the subway all together and take the Loop Line to Tennoji. At Tennoji, you need to change to the Yamatoji Line section of the Kansai Main Line. Any rapid service (there are several), will stop at Nara, all taking about the same time.

Getting Your Bearings at Nara Station

Go out the East Exit of Nara Station and make your way north past the buses and tourist information center to the large intersection, where you'll make a right and continue to head east. The route below is the quickest way to get to the hotel, but it sacrilegiously takes you past some must-see spots. Don't forget to check out the sites that your guidebook recommends you see!

Map courtesy of Google Maps

Information on the Nara Hotel

The hotel does its best to cater to tourist clientele and does not have a strict dress code policy. If you're keen to pay the hotel a visit, the Tea Lounge (a tea lounge) is open from 8:30 to 18:00. To the south of the hotel grounds is the garden of the former Daijo-in temple, which is historically interesting but not something to prioritize on a day trip to Nara.


Driver Gragma (yokaitourbus "at" mail "dot" com)
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/yokaitourbus/

The Master List (Nara):
http://yokaitourbus.blogspot.jp/2015/08/6-e-master-list-nara.html

(yokai) The Demon of Gango-ji (元興寺の鬼)
Site: Nara Hotel (奈良ホテル)
Nearest Station: (JR Line) Nara Stn. (奈良駅) or (Kintetsu Line) Kintetsu-Nara Stn. (近鉄奈良駅)
Google Map Search: "Nara Hotel Takabatakecho"